It physically involves his muzzle and his personal space in front of him. The Delicate Zone: around the eye area, the zone from the nose band up over the ears to the head piece of the halter. It's a delicate area and needs to be treated with care. Zone 2: from right behind the ears to the break of the withers, the little dip right in front of them.
Essentially it's the neck and chest and the end of the zone makes a diagonal line to the point of the shoulder. Zone 3: from the break of the withers to the point of the hip. Zone 4: from the point of the hip to the top of the tail. Zone 5: from the tail head stretching out a mile and a half behind him.
The Porcupine Game will follow soon. The Porcupine Game This is really a very fun Game that teaches the horse to "yield to and from pressure," while also preparing him to respond to leg and rein aids. We'll be asking our horse to move in six different directions: backwards, forwards, right, left, and the head and neck: up and down. We'll also refer back to the Zones that were discussed in an earlier post.
We're going to be asking our horse to move in these different directions with just gentle pressure from our fingertips. Rub the spot first, begin the pressure with your fingertips, then rub the spot again at the end of the movement. For example, I want my horse to back up by applying pressure to his chest.
I'd rub the center of his chest, apply light pressure with my fingertips while I look in the direction that I want him to move in. At first I'll start with the very lightest pressure. Parelli suggests starting out by applying four ounces of pressure can anyone give a good example of what four ounces of pressure feels like? I always look at it as the first rub tells my horse: 1 I'm friendly and 2 I'm going to ask you to do something.
Then I'll ask, with my fingertips, then let him know that the movement should end and he that did well by rubbing the spot again. Parelli suggests "smoothly and assertively increase the pressure until the point where your horse is motivated to respond. If your horse "leans on a post, it gets harder the harder he leans. You AND your horse should stay with that gentle fingertip pressure.
You're not chasing with it, he's not escaping from it. You're moving together. You're partners. The click can have many applications here that will help your horse quickly understand what you're asking him to do. Always be consistent in how you ask and in starting with the lightest touch. You apply as much pressure as is necessary to get a response but as little as it takes. Your aim, throughout though, is to always use as little pressure as possible.
I have a friend who always asks me "How much does a fly weigh? We see our horse's flinch when a tiny fly lands on them. They weigh less than four ounces, in other words, and the horse can sure feel it. Four ounces is a starting point though, but eventually, once your horse understands the Game, all that is needed is the intent, light as air, coming through your fingers.
Ready to play the Game? Move the front end Zone 1,2,3 Move the hindquarters Zone 4 Move him sideways, left and right Zone 2,3,4 Back your horse by his chest front of Zone 3 Lower his head to the ground top of Zone 2 Raise his head back up Delicate Zone-Cheeks " Think about your body position too. Think about the straightness of certain moves and how your body and hand placement on the horse may effect it. Where you ask on the horse's body may actually be asking him to "back crooked" for example.
Look up and in the direction that you're asking hm to move. Try not to poke or increase the pressure too quickly.
Let your horse have some "think" time of about three seconds in between increases. Plan ahead. Know what you're asking for before you ask but learn from any mistakes. Remember to rub before and after the movement.
For delicate spots, like the flank Zone 3 try not to just "go for it" at first. Maybe rub a less delicate spot, like the middle of your horse's back, slide your hand down to the flank, rub again, apply pressure to ask for movement, then rub again when the movement is complete. With the clicker, your horse will learn really quickly. How creative can you get with the Porcupine Game? As always: Report back! The Driving Game This Game helps your horse "to understand and respond to supporting aids.
If your previous Game, The Porcupine, is getting good and you're using a soft touch, this next step is just around the corner! Some of you may already be there! You won't be using your lead rope to cause the movement you can hold onto it if you need to, but keep the float in it or lay it over your horses neck instead you'll use a steady rhythm with your open hand or eventually a slight wiggle of a finger or a lean of your body. To me this game asks you to use your concentration and inner energies.
I always breath, concentrate and then think of my energy going out from the palm of my hand to my horse. I have also thought that it also includes a bit of using the power of suggestion.
For example, stand next to your horse's shoulder, facing his hindquarters. Take one big step sideways away from your horse. Bring your arm straight out to the side at shoulder level. Now make a big sweeping motion and point to your horse's hindquarters. In my experience, the horse seems to finish the movement and you'll see his back end take a step away or at the very least, the muscle will flex. To me, this is the power of suggestion influencing your horse.
Perhaps you'll start by making soft, small motions with your open hand towards your horses shoulder, and slowly increase the intensity of the movement if he does not respond increasing slowly about every three seconds until your horse moves.
In the beginning you may even need to begin tapping the shoulder. Parelli suggests even slapping the shoulder if necessary-but I don't think that you'll have that need. Remember, even it you do have to increase to actually tapping the shoulder, when you begin again, you start with the softest rhythm of your hand without touching the horse.
You always start with the softest movement and soon, the softest movement is all you'll need. Think about your body placement. Where in relation to your horse's eye should you begin your rhythmic movements to get him to move in certain directions? Experiment, see what it takes. Add your clicker wherever you see fit and tell the list how quickly your horse caught on. Drive him backwards away from you. Side pass him along a fence left and right. Cause him to lift a foot up and place it down a single step.
Be careful in driving from behind if you are in your horse's "kick zone" and he is not yet comfortable with you there. Remember, gentle movements at first. How can you get even softer? This is a game where you will ask your horse to back away from you, pause, then walk forward to you while maintaining straightness and a light feel, then stop with your slightest suggestion. The end result will be asking your horse to back with a little wiggle of your finger then come forward when you "comb" the rope by inviting your horse in with your open hand, one after the other, under the rope.
That's probably not very clear, is it? I sort of think of "combing" like twiddling your thumbs, but with your hands, where they circle around each other, while they pass under and gently touch the rope. You begin by standing directly in front of your horse. You will ask him to keep both eyes on you. If his attention strays you might ask it to come back with a GENTLE tug of the lead rope out to the side of which you want his head to turn back to.
Here is a good time to mention a warning: this is an easy Game to misuse your lead rope in. The way I was taught was to really use that rope to jerk my horse's attention back to me.
Fast and hard. I was also taught, that when I up the phases of wiggling my rope for the back up which I will describe in a bit to escalate it to slapping Dan's chin and nose with the clasp of the lead as hard as I could if need be. It's easy to get abusive with this and I personally do not like to see the Game taught this way because it doesn't encourage the development of feel. I think that it uses more force and fear. You have an opportunity though, to go about it in another way.
If you just start to think about it, if your other games are good enough, you can apply what your horse already knows in a way that he will better accept and understand this Game.
Some people might have other opinions here and it would be good to hear them! My experience with teaching Dan this Game, and misusing my lead rope in the beginning, was a horse that just plain tuned me out.
He was physically just standing there what I would call "just taking it" but mentally he had split the scene. This game was a turning point for me. What I was doing to him really upset me.
I needed to come up with a better way to apply it for my particular horse because I also wanted to get the best out of our relationship. And I also began to start thinking about the importance of feel at this time. I needed to make a change. So this is what I did: I stood in front of Dan, a few feet away, and held the lead rope at the end, palm down. I wiggled my finger from side to side.
I increased the "pressure" in small increments about every three seconds. Wiggling my finger, tapping the rope with my finger, taking hold of the rope and wiggling the rope gently back and forth in the same rhythm. My wiggles become larger but still gentle, I don't want the snap to hit my horse then I'd start walking towards Dan still wiggling my finger and rope gently, then I tap his chest in the same easy rhythm, then use my finger tips steadily in the middle of his chest remember, rub first, then finger tips and porcupine a step back.
I'd step back, then begin again with the smallest pressure, a finger wiggle. Soon Dan backed with fewer and fewer steps in between the finger wiggle and his actual step backwards. Then soon, he'd see that finger wiggle, and that's all it took. So we start this Game by giving the cue that we want as our "finished" cue. We add onto it, then work backwards from there! If your Porcupine Game is good, you can apply it to teach this in a very understandable way.
You may prefer to use a carrot stick to gently add by rhythmically tapping the ground or softly wiggling in the air, then gently tap his chest then porcupine him with it or a whip will work too Remember, you can softly rub for the porcupine with a carrot stick or whip too. You may have to play the Friendly Game using these objects first though-which would be a nice way to start anyway, even if your horse is comfortable with them already. Then there are also extra downloads you can buy and add to the game but why do that when you can get free downloads from creators around the internet.
Bonus : I like that you can have a relationship with the horse and that they have somewhat of personalities. Overall the game is worth paying for. It is pretty fun and can keep you busy for a long time. Creating your own farm, living a fake life with horses, creating your sims, creating stories.
Custom content for the game you can download is so much fun. Just make sure it is from secure sights. Sims 3 Horses Guide. Steam Custom Content Download Guide. If purchased I get a small commission for no extra charge to you. I appreciate any support! It was very hard deciding to place this game above Riding Club Championship which is next. I think the games have a very different feel and it is similar to how good RCC is.
I put this game above only because it seems to have more features than RCC. You have to catch your first horse. However before you can catch your first horse you need horse taming orbs to do so. You create these orbs by mining for different materials. There are iron, wood, cotton, stone, opal, amber that you will mine. There are different level orbs and require different amounts and types of materials.
The rarer the horse, the more orbs needed and the higher level the orbs that are needed in order to catch the horse. You need to create a stable or stall for each horse you get or you are able to put the horse out in the paddock. If the horse is in the paddock too long they will jump out and escape so you do need to create a stall. You could also decide to sell the horse and get coins. You have different levels based on the quests that you do and the horse competitions you score well on and complete.
There are also daily quests that you need to do. Fantasy- Fire pegasus, pink pegasus, black pegasus, white pegasus, aqua horse, purple fantasy. However Horse Riding Tales is very expensive with the in-game purchases. In the game you have gold coins and gems to buy things. The game is super slow with all the mining and trying to make orbs, buying gems and gold coins speeds things way up. But they are a good chunk of money.
Then you can use gems to buy a bunch of things in the game. You can earn or find gems. But it takes forever!! I have 39 gems right now. I never spent money on this game. Overall it is a fairly fun game but it is super repetitive and can get boring over time. Horse Riding Tales Steam Guide. Horse Riding Tales Video Walk-through. Riding Club Championship comes in at a close number 4 because the competition experience is pretty good better than Horse Riding Tales I think but it has fewer features in my opinion.
This is another MMO game. The game is all about jumping competitions. This game is fun and you get to compete against other people. There is not a whole lot of interaction between players that I have noticed. You can be a male or female and choose your skin and hair color combo. All the horse models look the same. There are no breeds, just the generic horse in the game similar to Horse Riding Tales. The woman rider looks decently normal, the male rider looks somewhat off and ogarish.
It is free to play on Steam. Then there are also in-game coin purchases. Overall I would say definitely play this game if you like show jumping horse games. Riding Club Championship Forum on Steam. The reason My Riding Stables: A Life With Horses is at Number 5 is not because its a terrible game but because it is a big investment of time and takes a lot of work.
It actually is pretty cool if you get into it and is somewhat realistic. Try commanding the horse to move forward in a similar manner. Continue this practice until your horse moves in either direction just at the sound of your command. Give the horse a verbal command to start circling. Let the horse complete about four to five circles and try to make it stop with a verbal command.
Continue this practice until you can get your horse to start and stop circling without the rope attached to its harness. To make sure that your horse does not move forward, simply position it in front of a solid, stationary object. Continue this practice until you have taught the horse to move sideways by giving it only the verbal command.
Make sure that you encourage the horse each time it moves at your sideways push and verbal command to speed up the learning process. The Squeezing Game Stand approximately 5 feet away from an object placed in front of your horse and signal your horse to move in the middle of you and the object.
Gradually decrease the distance between you and the object, commanding the horse to move in the middle of you and the object each time you reduce the distance. Make sure that you praise the horse each time it obeys your command. Continue this game until will move in between you and the object even if it has to touch you and the object at the same time.
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